Surfed Out

I sit on my surf board
Waiting in the lineup
On the horizon is a wave
I start to paddle for the massive wave
I feel it pick me up and I pop up
Balancing on my board, gliding over the water
The fins cutting through the green of the ocean
I can smell fish in the distance
I can hear the screech of birds and the kids yelling
The lip is curling over
And the wave starts to break
I see a tombstone
Before I know it I nose dive
Submerged in the ice cold water
I can feel my wet-suit filling with water
There are waves crashing all around me
I pull my leash towards me
And paddle through the whitewash
Paddling over the greater force
Of the ocean, Never to be
Surfed Out